From Calangute to Candolim, here’s where you can get your hands on the freshest seafood and finest cocktails this rainy season

By Condé Nast Traveller

1 July 2022

Goa’s off-season could also be the best time to visit the destination—the beaches are quiet, the hotels are less expensive and who knows—you may even spot more palm trees than people. The rains may also be a time you can walk into some of Goa’s most popular shacks and beachfront restaurants and find a spot without a reservation. But since many shut for the season, it’s tough to find the few establishments that are open. To save you from making a hundred calls, we’ve rounded up a list of spots if you’re looking for some sun, sand and drizzle.

Pousada by the Beach, Calangute

Come for the lobster punctuated with Goan spices, and stay for the two adorable labradors—Chai and Biscuit. The shack—run by father-son duo Neville and Joshua Proença—overlooks a clear stretch of Calangute beach. Besides Goan preparations, look forward to European fare and feni-infused cocktails. Away from Goa’s buzz, here’s where you can spend a quiet evening with sand under your toes and the sounds of lapping waves. Instagram.

Tereza Beach House, Nerul

Tereza Beach House—by the team behind Sly Granny (Bengaluru) and Mamagoto—offers a slice of Goa’s susegad life. Housed in a beach bungalow on the waterfront of Coco Beach, this 136-seater ‘shack’ entertains diners with live music performances. The food menu is exhaustive, and features a variety of comfort dishes, including Caesar salad, wings, pork ribs, meatballs, burrata and more, while the drink menu offers a range of house concoctions and classic cocktails. Instagram.

Souza Lobo, Calangute

The interiors are simple—under the Mangalore-tiled roof of this old favourite restaurant sit rattan chairs and wooden tables covered in red tablecloths. Beyond lie views that will keep you hooked until your food arrives. Try the lobster thermidor, masala fried fish, crab xacuti, tandoori kingfish and masala fried calamari. Website.

Brittos, Baga

One of Goa’s oldest establishments, Britto’s has been serving delicious Goan seafood by Baga beach since 1965. You can sample prawns and fish in a variety of local preparations such as recheado, cafreal, xacuti and balchao here. Wash it down with a glass of beer, wine, Scotch or a mocktail. Instagram

Zeebop by the Sea, Utorda

The food at Zeebop by the sea shines with the freshest seafood, with dishes such as butter-fried calamari , fish curry, stuffed crab and more. When the weather holds up, enjoy a night of live music with sand in your toes and fairy lights above. Website

Titlie, Anjuna

Titlie opens up to sweeping views of Ozran Beach in Anjuna. The menu features a mix of global and Indian fare such as butter garlic poached prawns, ceviche, goat fry and tofu curry. The bar serves up in-house concoctions. Try the Elderflower Bellini, Dirty Banana and Toki Highball. Instagram.

Also read: Indulge in spellbinding fare at the new Harry Potter Cafe in Tokyo

Yazu, Candolim

If you wish to take a break from Goan food, slot in a day for the pan-Asian restaurant Yazu on your next trip. The beach club is surrounded by sea breeze and swaying palm trees. On the menu are Atlantic smoked salmon sushi roll, truffle edamame dumpling, charcoal aubergine bao and roboto yaki. End your meal on a sweet note with tiramisu or baked cheesecake. Instagram

Lush by the Cliff

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For a great view of Goa’s sunset, head to Lush by the Cliff. The all-white restaurant overlooking Anjuna bay is the perfect spot for a romantic evening or a sundowner. The multi-cuisine menu features kebabs, salads, steaks, curries and sizzlers as well as innovative cocktails. Instagram

Olive Goa, Anjuna

Grab a front-row seat to the pretty sunsets at Vagator beach at Olive Goa. The alfresco space features Mediterranean fare with fresh seafood. Try the prawn and avocado poy boy, the mezze platter, pan-seared fillet of salmon and the Turkish pizza. Wash it down with a Beachfront Cooler or Jalapeno Honey. All that food is sure to induce some sleep; get in a nap on one of the hammocks that overlook the beach. Website.

Thalassa, Siolim

A pitstop for many on their Goa holiday, Thalassa wears a different charm in the monsoon, as palm trees dance to the sea breeze and bulbous clouds take over the skies. Grab a beachside table and enjoy Greek dishes such as spicy mushroom saganaki, chicken fillet souvlaki and giaourtlou kebab, along with cabaret shows. Website.

Saz on the Beach, Morjim

The chic lounge transports you to a beach club in Spain with its canopies and sofas. Pasta, fresh seafood, steak and innovative cocktails are accompanied with beautiful views of Morjim beach. Saz is run by the folks of Ping’s Orient and Delhi’s famous speakeasy, PCO. Instagram.

St Anthony’s, Baga

St Anthony’s is one of the few restaurants that remains open through the monsoon on Baga Beach. The shack offers Goan delicacies, tandoors, Portuguese and Italian dishes, along with beer and other beverages. During the day, enjoy the sound of the waves crashing against the shore, and at night, listen to people belt out songs at the karaoke bar. Instagram

Purple Martini, Anjuna

The cliff top location of Purple Martini affords some of the most gorgeous views of Anjuna beach. The interiors are inspired by the colour palette of Santorini, and the food is a whirl through Asia, India and Mexico, with dishes such as Thai curry, quesadillas and a range of tikkas on the menu. No points for guessing that the signature cocktail is a purple martini, but there are a range of other martinis to try, from pornstar to basil. Instagram.

Antares Goa, Anjuna

Beach bumming on sunbeds, grilled seafood at the beach and cocktails at the daybar… if the weather holds up, you can expect all this and much more at Antares, run by MasterChef contestant chef Sarah Todd. But if it doesn’t, fret not. There’s always the indoor restaurant for some Australian fare. Instagram.

Pine Tree Beach Shack, Calangute

If quiet time by the beach is what you’re looking for, head to Pine Tree. Located in a corner of Calangute, the only sounds that will reach you are of waves crashing by the shore and the pitter-patter of rain. Relish on the freshest of seafood, including Goan fish curry and crabs, Indian-Chinese and more. Website.

This story was first published on Conde Nast Traveller India. 

Explained: Why revellers of Goa’s Sao Joao festival jump into wells and ponds
Celebrated on 24 June, Sao Joao, the feast of St John the Baptist, is one of the most important festivals of the Catholic community in Goa. The unique part of the festival is the ‘leap of joy’ taken into the water bodies – wells, ponds, fountains and rivers

FP Explainers
June 24, 2022 13:41:58 IST
Explained: Why revellers of Goa’s Sao Joao festival jump into wells and ponds
Representational image of the Sao Joao festival in Goa. Photo: Goa Tourism Development Corporation

India’s favourite beach destination Goa is celebrating a unique festival on Friday. Celebrated on 24 June, Sao Joao, the feast of St John the Baptist, is one of the most important festivals of the Catholic community in Goa.

The celebrations include revellers wearing crowns made of fruits, flowers and leaves. The unique part of the festival is the “leap of joy” taken into the water bodies – wells, ponds, fountains and rivers.

What is the Sao Joao festival?

As per the Goa Insider, the joyous and colourful festival honours Saint John the Baptist, who had baptised Jesus Christ on the river Jordan.

The festival that has traditionally been celebrated with pomp and vigour in the villages of Cortalim in South Goa and Harmal, Baga, Siolim and Terekhol in North Goa, has become a “complete package of merriment and joy” for tourists, according to the Goa Tourism Development Corporation (GTDC).

Not limited to the Christian communities, Sao Joao is celebrated by all Goans alike. It is particularly sacred to newlyweds, new parents and new house owners.

Why do revellers jump into water bodies?

The day’s celebrations are marked with a unique tradition of jumping into water bodies while shouting a celebratory “viva Sao Joao”.

According to Christian scriptures, it is believed St. John the Baptist leaped with joy in his mother St Elizabeth’s womb when virgin Mary broke the news of expecting Jesus to her.

Hence, children and adults merrily commemorate the “leap of joy” taken by St John the Baptist.

Due to its connection with the birth of Jesus Christ, the festival is also special for expecting women.

What other activities are part of the celebration?

Apart from the jumping into water bodies, the festivities include playing the traditional gumott, a percussion instrument, a boat festival and serving of feni.

Revellers wear ‘Kopel’, a crown of fruits, flowers and leaves while parading in villages. Traditional Konkani songs written especially for the occasion are played along with the gumott and cansaim (cymbal).

Sao Joao boat parade in Siolim can see thousands of visitors coming in. Started in 1992, the boat parade is held in front of St Anthony’s Church in the village. According to The Indian Express, a stage is erected and participants show up in vibrant costumes and prizes are awarded by the best decorated boat, dress and kopel.

Sao Joao is also special for son-in-laws. Traditionally, a new son-in-law is crowned with the festive headgear of fruits and leaves and introduced at every household. He would also be encouraged to jump into a water body along with other revellers. The festival gives the villagers and the son-in-law an opportunity to get to know each other.

https://www.firstpost.com/india/explained-why-revellers-of-goas-sao-joao-festival-jump-into-wells-and-ponds-10832241.html